Moisture and drainage
☐ Standing water or damp soil anywhere on the crawl floor — fix drainage first (regrade, gutters, downspout extensions, interior perimeter drain if needed).
☐ Efflorescence, rust, or water staining on foundation walls indicating past bulk water intrusion.
☐ Relative humidity above 60% on a summer day — encapsulation + dehumidifier is required, not optional.
☐ Sump pump present and working, if the crawl sits at or below the water table.
Vapor and air control
☐ Existing vapor barrier torn, folded, or missing at seams and piers.
☐ Open foundation vents — modern practice is to seal them once encapsulated in humid climates.
☐ Rim joist uninsulated or gapped — the single largest air leak in most homes.
☐ Duct joints in the crawl leaking (mastic missing, tape peeling) — seal before insulating around them.
Framing and pest damage
☐ Rotted joists or sill plate — repair or sister before insulating over them.
☐ Active termite, carpenter ant, or rodent activity — pest control first, then insulate.
☐ Insulation batts hanging down, wet, or contaminated — remove and dispose before new work.
☐ Knob-and-tube wiring or older ungrounded circuits — some products cannot legally be installed over these.
System choice
☐ Vented crawl in a dry climate → fiberglass batts between floor joists with kraft facing up.
☐ Vented crawl in a humid climate → encapsulate first, then insulate the foundation walls, not the floor above.
☐ Encapsulated crawl → closed-cell spray foam or rigid foam on foundation walls, R-13 to R-19 depending on climate zone.
☐ Rim joist → 2" closed-cell spray foam regardless of the crawl strategy chosen.
Contract and warranty
☐ Written scope specifying material, R-value, and square footage.
☐ Vapor barrier thickness (min 10-mil for encapsulation) written in the contract.
☐ Dehumidifier make, model, and drain plan if required.
☐ Workmanship warranty of at least 5 years on encapsulation seams.
☐ Certificate of Insurance and state license number provided before work begins.
Frequently asked questions
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